| There is a lot of talk about organically produced
wine at the moment The wine
industry is pausing to take stock of where it is going. Not just here in Italy,
but also across the border in France, the heart of European wine production. The
quality image of its wines is part and parcel of its highly regarded food and
wine sector but the industry is feeling the effects of competition from the newer
wine producing countries. The
situation is not critical but it has prompted industry professionals to look at
policies for the future. So it is interesting for us in Italy, with our equally
thriving high quality wines, to hear the news that there is a lot of talk about
organically produced wine at the moment. Pushing
the issue into the limelight was a high profile figure, René Renou, an
authority on the international wine scene. He is President of the wine division
of France's National Committee of Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées,
the organization responsible for overseeing and enforcing the regulations governing
premium wines. In his authoritative
and courageous view, there are many wines that no longer deserve to hold the AOC
designation. The last fifty years have seen too much use of fertilizers and pesticides.
Consequently, current practices no longer correspond to the 'faithful and continuous
local methods' required by the law that has regulated the area for seventy years.
It would be desirable and right to return to a more honest and balanced relationship
with the land, which has been so weakened by invasive and unsustainable production
methods. There has been increasing
attention on more environmentally-friendly agricultural practices in Italy too,
with the wine sector part of this move. Consumers have begun to think about a
more modern approach to viticulture which develops beyond a reliance on chemicals.
Producers are also showing greater awareness and readiness to meet the expanding
demand. For some, adopting organic methods is a good way to make greater impact
in a still stagnant market. We
should welcome this development, as long as it does not just become a fashion
statement by those buying and a publicity stunt for those selling. That would
devalue a desirable change. We should recognize that, from the very beginning,
the use of organic methods in Italy was accompanied by the need to safeguard the
typical distinctive features of local products. Organic agriculture is deeply
rooted in peasant farming culture. For
wine growers, organic methods are a sign of respect for the land which nurtures
the grapes, for their work and the people who live nearby. The adverse effects
people working in viticulture have suffered due to the use of synthetic products
show how important it is to work in a healthy environment free of contamination.
And the land itself suffers
and in the end becomes impoverished. Recent studies to combat flavescence dorée,
a serious grapevine disease, have shown that only when the soil is not stressed
by excessive application of unnatural substances are there enough mycorrhizal
fungi, an invisible but valuable microorganism. They live in a symbiotic relationship
with the roots of vines, helping them to obtain more nutrients and resist disease. Using
completely organic methods to produce wine grapes with the same qualities as those
grown using traditional methods requires more effort, and the price will never
be the same. So discerning consumers will need to shoulder responsibility for
becoming 'co-producers', making an additional small economic contribution in order
to have a cleaner product that benefits the environment and everyone. A demanding
sommelier can forgive small defects in an organically produced wine, but that
of course does not mean that poor quality should be accepted.
|