Wine industry
monitors GM yeast experiment 11/15/2005 The world's first genetically
modified wine yeast has been released into the North American market. Developed
in France, the yeast is expected to save costs through faster and more reliable
fermentation. However, the Australian wine industry is standing by its commitment
to remain GM-free and it is watching the experiment closely.Dr Paul Chambers from
the Australian Wine Research Institute says labelling could become an issue for
importers of US wines that use the modifed yeast.
"This
yeast in the US system is regarded as essentially the same as any other yeast,"
he said.
"There is no requirement for the company
to label the yeast when they sell it to winemakers and of course then the winemakers
over there may or may not know they're working with a GM yeast."
Yeast biologists put winemaking world in a ferment 09:30 26 December
2002 Holiday feature from New Scientist Print Edition Graham Lawton
Plastic
corks were an innovation too far for some, but winemakers have their eye on another
technology that will leave traditionalists spluttering into their claret: genetic
modification.
All over the world, molecular biologists are tinkering with
DNA to find ways to improve the quality of wine. Already they can do wonders,
conjuring up rare but desirable flavours and aromas, and adding body and complexity
to bog-standard plonk. Gene technology can also eliminate the spoilage compounds
that can make wine taste like sweaty socks, and even get rid of those nasties
that give you a bad head in the morning.
However, winemakers have focused
only a little of their attention on modifying the vines themselves. Vines are
difficult to engineer and the biological processes that control grape quality
are poorly understood. Instead, it is the other organism involved in winemaking
- the yeast - which has been taught new tricks. GM yeast has dazzling potential
because many of the "organoleptic" qualities of a wine - its colour,
aroma and flavour - are created by chemicals spat out by yeast as it munches its
way through the mush of crushed grapes. And the metabolic pathways that produce
these chemicals have proved obligingly easy to manipulate.
Right balance The
principal yeast used in winemaking is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which also happens
to be a standard experimental organism in genetics labs. Its long scientific pedigree
has helped oenologists enormously. Already, some research groups have carried
out small-scale experimental fermentations. One major experimental success has
been to use modified yeast to correct the balance between sugar and fruit in grapes,
which can peak at different times.
But experimental yeasts are also helping
to eliminate undesirable compounds. These are the off-flavours that make wines
taste sweaty, eggy, gassy or vinegary, the nasties that give you a bad head in
the morning, and the carcinogens that get you in the long run.
Most off-flavours
are developed by unwanted bacteria, moulds and yeasts, so a good deal of effort
is going to engineering compounds into wine yeast to kill off spoilage organisms.
For example, Florian Bauer and colleagues, at the Institute for Wine Biotechnology
at Stellenbosch University in South Africa, have expressed genes for three bactericides
and two anti-fungals in yeast.
That is also good news on the morning after.
"Most wine hangovers are not only due to alcohol," says Bauer. A big
culprit is neurotoxic amines produced by spoilage bacteria. Another is sulphur
dioxide, an essential and ubiquitous additive that kills bacteria but can make
you feel rough as a badger's bum in the morning. So commercial yeasts that churn
out comparatively harmless anti-microbials would be a boon.
Minimum quality Yet
despite the possibilities, you will not be drinking GM wine this Christmas, or
next. "Winemakers don't want to be associated with gene technology,"
says Bauer, one of only a handful of people to have drunk wine made with GM yeast.
It
is easy to see why, as wine trades heavily on its image as a traditional, artisanal
product Also many consumers do not like the idea of GM products - and it would
be a foolish winemaker who tried to force it down their throats. But Bauer
points out that no amount of tinkering with yeast can alter the fundamental ingredient
of good wine - the grapes themselves. "And you still have to be a good winemaker
to make good wine," Bauer says. "What GM yeast can do is make sure wines
at least correspond to certain minimum quality criteria."
Monty Waldin,
author of the Organic Wine Guide (HarperCollins, 1999), is unconvinced. He sees
GM yeast as an extension of an insidious modern craze for "ultra-clean, technically
perfect wine" with big fruit, clear fresh flavours - and no character. "It's
phoney wine," he says.
GM yeast provides ultimate
hangover cure for wine lovers By Arifa Akbar Published: 19 December
2002 Genetically modified yeast added to wine could stop hangovers, researchers
said yesterday. Genetically modified yeast added to wine could stop hangovers,
researchers said yesterday. In what could become a wine drinker's dream, the addition
of GM yeast might also improve flavour. Yet it is unlikely to become reality because
of consumer resistance to gene technology. Molecular biologists have been experimenting
with ways to give a better and different flavour to wine, to remove nasty aftertastes
and to enhance body to the most basic vintage. However, wine makers do not
want to be associated with GM because of the negative image it has among consumers,
researchers say in the latest edition of the New Scientist. Despite their opinions
of GM, wine makers are said to be interested in the possibility of genetic engineering
to improve vines. But the biggest potential could be in the yeast. Traditional
wine-makers rely on natural yeasts that grow on skin of the grape, but GM yeasts
would be more reliable by helping to improve the sugar-acid balance and body of
the wine. Florian Bauer, from the Institute of Wine Biotechnology at Stellenbosch
University in South Africa, said GM wines could also reduce illness the morning
after as most hangovers did not result from the alcohol itself. Neurotoxic amines
and sulphur dioxide in wine also contribute to hangovers, so commercial yeasts
that produce relatively harmless anti-microbials could help to prevent heavy heads.
Despite consumer doubts about GM products, the dilemma could be resolved if wine
made with the yeast did not contain any yeast DNA, meaning that, technically,
it was not GM. Products including cheese already use a technique similar to
this. But European Union rules state that cheese does not have to be labelled
because the GM element is a "processing aid" with no trace in the final
product. The same regulations would not apply to wine because it might retain
some yeast cells. The likelihood of seeing GM wines on supermarket shelves
remains low, with every researcher contacted by the New Scientist saying there
were no plans to put GM products into commercial wine making. But scientists
could use GM yeasts as models that could be experimented with, to make the same
changes without using GM technology.
Grape
Improvements by Carlo Petrini Italy - 29/06/2005
There
is a lot of talk about organically produced wine at the moment
The
wine industry is pausing to take stock of where it is going. Not just here in
Italy, but also across the border in France, the heart of European wine production.
The quality image of its wines is part and parcel of its highly regarded food
and wine sector but the industry is feeling the effects of competition from the
newer wine producing countries.
The
situation is not critical but it has prompted industry professionals to look at
policies for the future. So it is interesting for us in Italy, with our equally
thriving high quality wines, to hear the news that there is a lot of talk about
organically produced wine at the moment.
Pushing
the issue into the limelight was a high profile figure, René Renou, an
authority on the international wine scene. He is President of the wine division
of France's National Committee of Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées,
the organization responsible for overseeing and enforcing the regulations governing
premium wines.
In his authoritative
and courageous view, there are many wines that no longer deserve to hold the AOC
designation. The last fifty years have seen too much use of fertilizers and pesticides.
Consequently, current practices no longer correspond to the 'faithful and continuous
local methods' required by the law that has regulated the area for seventy years.
It would be desirable and right to return to a more honest and balanced relationship
with the land, which has been so weakened by invasive and unsustainable production
methods.
There has been increasing
attention on more environmentally-friendly agricultural practices in Italy too,
with the wine sector part of this move. Consumers have begun to think about a
more modern approach to viticulture which develops beyond a reliance on chemicals.
Producers are also showing greater awareness and readiness to meet the expanding
demand. For some, adopting organic methods is a good way to make greater impact
in a still stagnant market.
We
should welcome this development, as long as it does not just become a fashion
statement by those buying and a publicity stunt for those selling. That would
devalue a desirable change. We should recognize that, from the very beginning,
the use of organic methods in Italy was accompanied by the need to safeguard the
typical distinctive features of local products. Organic agriculture is deeply
rooted in peasant farming culture.
For
wine growers, organic methods are a sign of respect for the land which nurtures
the grapes, for their work and the people who live nearby. The adverse effects
people working in viticulture have suffered due to the use of synthetic products
show how important it is to work in a healthy environment free of contamination.
And the land itself suffers
and in the end becomes impoverished. Recent studies to combat flavescence dorée,
a serious grapevine disease, have shown that only when the soil is not stressed
by excessive application of unnatural substances are there enough mycorrhizal
fungi, an invisible but valuable microorganism. They live in a symbiotic relationship
with the roots of vines, helping them to obtain more nutrients and resist disease.
Using
completely organic methods to produce wine grapes with the same qualities as those
grown using traditional methods requires more effort, and the price will never
be the same. So discerning consumers will need to shoulder responsibility for
becoming 'co-producers', making an additional small economic contribution in order
to have a cleaner product that benefits the environment and everyone. A demanding
sommelier can forgive small defects in an organically produced wine, but that
of course does not mean that poor quality should be accepted.